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People envision many different things when thinking about rats and mice. Some consider them as vermin or pests, many envision laboratory specimens, others think of them as snake food, while a chosen population treasure them as pets. These rodents make excellent pets for children if they are cared for properly. They seldom bite when raised as pets and are handled with care.
These timid and social pets are fun to watch performing their natural behaviors of burrowing, searching for food, and playing. Unlike their wild counterparts that are typically nocturnal, pet rats and mice have periods of activity both day and night. Rats and mice are inexpensive, easy to care for, and responsive to handling.
Handling
Pet rodents become tame and seldom bite when properly restrained and accustomed to handling. Some rats can be very territorial of their cage, and these should be coaxed out of the cage before being handled. Mice housed individually may be more aggressive and apprehensive than those housed in groups. Most mice and rats enjoy being handled away from their cage. Rats and mice can easily picked up by scooping them into a can or cupped hands. For any rodent, never pull on the tip of the tail because the skin can easily tear and become stripped from the tail.
Housing
Several types of cages are available that are suitable for housing small rodents. Many of these units come equipped with cage e¨furniturei´ such as exercise wheels, tunnels and nest boxes as added luxuries. Such accessories, as well as sufficient litter depth within which to burrow, are desirable for the peti´s psychological well-being. Cages should be constructed with rounded corners to prevent chewing. Rodents will readily chew through wood, light plastic and soft metal; so recommended caging materials are wire, stainless steel, durable plastic and glass. Beware that glass and plastic containers drastically reduce ventilation and can lead to problems with humidity, temperature and odor concentration. Make sure that the enclosure is escape proof because these little rodents are known escape artists.
Rodents do very well in solid bottom cages with deep bedding and ample nesting material. Shredded paper and processed corncob are preferred bedding. Cedar chips or chlorophyll scented shavings should be avoided because of association with respiratory and liver disease. At lease one inch of bedding should be provided to allow for normal burrowing behavior. Cotton and shredded tissue paper make excellent nesting materials. Adult mice require a minimum floor area of 15 square inches and a cage height of 5 inches. Rats need at least 40 square inches of floor space and a minimum of 7 inches in height. The cage and accessories should be cleaned thoroughly once to twice weekly. Cages are sanitized with hot water and nontoxic disinfectant or detergent, and then thoroughly rinsed. Water bottles and food dishes should be cleaned and disinfected daily.
Pet rats and mice can be housed singly or in groups. These rodents are colony oriented by nature. However, occasionally an overly aggressive mouse or rat may have to be caged individually. Territorial disputes also develop when the cages are overcrowded or when they lack food or water. Group cages should be provided with multiple food and water sources.
Water
Always provide fresh water for your pet. Fresh water should be provided daily, not only when the bottle empties. Water is easily provided in water bottles equipped with sipper tubes. This method also helps keep the water free from contamination. Always make sure that the tubes are positioned low enough to allow the pet easy access.
Food
In the wild, these animals feed on leaves, seeds, roots, fruits and insects. Current recommendations for feeding in captivity are pelleted rodent ration containing 14% protein and 4% fat. Seed diets are also formulated for mice and rats, but these diets should only supplement the basic rodent pellet as a treat item. Rodents prefer sunflower-based diets to pellets, but these seeds are low in calcium and high in fat and cholesterol. When fed exclusively, seed diets can lead to obesity and nutritional deficiencies.
Hamsters are peculiar little rodents with large cheek pouches and short stubby tails. They have gained popularity as pets and research animals since the 1930i´s. The Syrian hamsteri´s (golden hamster) wild habitat extends through the Middle East and Southeastern Europe. In 1930, a litter of eight baby hamsters was taken to Palestine and raised as research animals. Virtually all domesticated hamsters sold in the pet trade are descendants of three of the survivors of this litter. Hamsters were introduced first into the United States in 1938.
Since their domestication several color and hair coat varieties of the Syrian hamster have arisen through selective breeding. The three basic groups that now exist include the common e¨goldeni´ hamster, colored short-haired e¨fancyi´ hamster, and long-haired e¨teddy beari´ hamster. All three varieties are popular as pets.
Since their domestication several color and hair coat varieties of the Syrian hamster have arisen through selective breeding. The three basic groups that now exist include the common e¨goldeni´ hamster, colored short-haired e¨fancyi´ hamster, and long-haired e¨teddy beari´ hamster. All three varieties are popular as pets.
Handling
Hamsters handled frequently from a young age usually remain docile and seldom bite. These animals of a docile nature can be picked up gently by cupping in one or both hands and held against onei´s body. Beware that even docile hamsters may bite if surprised or abruptly awakened from sleep.
Housing
Several types of cages are available that are suitable for housing hamsters. Many of these units come equipped with cage e¨furniturei´ such as exercise wheels, tunnels and nest boxes as added luxuries. Such accessories, as well as sufficient litter depth within which to burrow, are desirable for the peti´s psychological well-being. Cages should be constructed with rounded corners to prevent chewing. Hamsters will readily chew through wood, light plastic and soft metal; so recommended caging materials are wire, stainless steel, durable plastic and glass. Beware that glass and plastic containers drastically reduce ventilation and can lead to problems with humidity, temperature and odor concentration. Make sure that the enclosure is escape proof because these little rodents are known escape artists.
Hamsters do very well in solid bottom cages with deep bedding and ample nesting material. Shredded paper or tissue, wood shavings and processed corncob are preferred bedding. Cotton and shredded tissue paper make excellent nesting materials. Cedar chips or chlorophyll scented shavings should be avoided because of association with respiratory and liver disease. The cage and accessories should be cleaned thoroughly once to twice weekly. Cages are sanitized with hot water and nontoxic disinfectant or detergent, and then thoroughly rinsed. Water bottles and food dishes should be cleaned and disinfected daily.
Pet hamsters are generally housed singly. Mature female hamsters tend to be very aggressive towards one another and should never be housed together. Males may also fight when housed together, but tend to be less aggressive than females.
Water
Always provide fresh water for your hamster. Fresh water should be provided daily, not only when the bottle empties. Water is easily provided in water bottles equipped with sipper tubes. This method also helps keep the water free from contamination. Always make sure that the tubes are positioned low enough to allow the hamster easy access.
Food
The precise nutritional requirements of hamsters have not been fully determined. In the wild, these animals feed on plants, seeds, fruit and insects. Current recommendations for feeding in captivity are pelleted rodent ration containing 15% - 20% protein. Other supplements to the diet may include sugarless breakfast cereals, whole wheat breads, pasta, cheese, cooked lean meats, fresh fruits and vegetables; all fed in moderation.
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FERRETS 
Ferrets are inquisitive, lively and charming little creatures that have captured the hearts of thousands of people around the world. They have an average lifespan of 5 to 7 years with the current record being 14 years. The scientific name Mustela purorious furo means "little smelly thief." Ferrets are the domesticated form of either the Eastern or Western European polecat. They have been domesticated since at least 300 BC and were originally used for rodent control and to hunt rabbits. The majority of ferrets in the world today are kept as pets either in the house or in outdoor enclosures.
Diet
Ferrets are obligate carnivores, meaning they are designed to eat whole prey items, which includes all parts of the killed animal. They have to eat animal tissue to meet their nutritional requirements. Plants, including fruits and vegetables, are not a significant part of a natural ferret diet. Ferrets tend to eat several smaller meals and carry any excess to their dens to eat later.
Ferrets require a diet that is highly concentrated with FAT as the main source of calories and highly digestible MEAT-BASED PROTEIN. Ferrets should never be fed carbohydrates (such as vegetable, fruit or grains) as the main source of energy in the diet. Ferrets cannot digest fiber, as is found in some vegetable and fruit sources.
The next best choice to feeding a whole prey diet is to feed a balanced raw carnivore diet or a grain free cat food. Wysong, Nature’s variety, Evo and Merricks B.G. feline diets are good choices for feeding. In general, you should look for diets that are made from meat suitable for human consumption (preferably organic) containing all the parts of the animal (organ meat, muscle, fat and bone), a high level of fat, and containing no grain or grain products, sweeteners or chemical preservatives. Dog or cat treats that are composed of freeze dried muscle or organ meat are appropriate to use. Also, pieces of a freeze-dried carnivore diet can be offered in the dry form. Please read labels before you feed a commercial product to your pet.
Environment
Caging and Exercise: Ferrets should not be caged 24 hours a day. Like all animals, they need exercise to develop strong bones and muscles as well as for healthy mental activity. In addition, time out of the cage spent exploring or playing is a healthy mental activity that can help prevent behavioral problems. Ferrets have the physiology of a predatory hunter and will play intensely for an hour or so and then sleep deeply for several hours. Although ferrets are nocturnal by nature, they will adjust their activity schedule to yours without much fuss. The home cage should be a minimum size of 24"x24"x18" high for up to two ferrets. The cage can be multilevel, but avoid steep ramps because ferrets are not natural climbers and could fall and injure themselves. Aquariums are not suitable cages for ferrets because of inadequate air circulation. Make sure the cage is made of a material that will be easy to clean and deodorize and is indestructible to ferrets digging in the corners. The cage floor can be solid, but should be waterproof and easy to clean or made of wire mesh with openings no larger than 1/4" to prevent foot injuries. Ferrets should be allowed to exercise in a supervised, ferret-proofed exercise area a minimum of 2 hours a day. This exercise period can be all at once or divided up into two or three play periods. Ferrets in the wild would spend a good deal of time in burrows underground, eating, sleeping, and hunting. Think like a ferret, get down on your hands and knees and look for areas that might be attractive to him or her to dig or burrow into. Make sure you block off all escape routes and remove toxic substances such as plants, household cleaners, insecticides and rodenticides. Protect the carpeting from digging with heavy plastic carpet protectors. Keep your pet from burrowing into the bottom of your furniture or mattresses by covering these areas with a solid piece of thin plywood, hardware cloth, or Plexiglas®. Recliner chairs should be removed because ferrets like to climb into the chairs to sleep and when the chair is reclined your ferret can be seriously injured. Some pet stores and Internet ferret supply sites sell moveable ferret exercise pens that are great for allowing your pet to have time outside of the cage while being protected from dangerous situations. You can place a mat under the pen to keep the floor clean. These can even be used outdoors with strict supervision. (Never leave your ferret(s) alone outdoors in any open pen arrangement.) Make sure the bars on the exercise pen are sufficiently narrow to prevent escape, sufficiently far from the top to bottom to prevent your pet climbing out, and the pen’s walls are at least 4 feet tall. Some pens have smooth sides, such as those made of Plexiglas, to prevent climbing or escape.
Sleeping Area: In the wild, ferrets would sleep in a dark, warm, dry nest underground. We need to simulate this same environment by providing sleeping material in which a ferret can feel safe. Sleeping areas can be as simple as a soft towel, old shirt or cut off trouser leg or blouse sleeve. There are now a wide variety of sleeping paraphernalia for ferrets sold at pet stores such as cloth tubes, tents and hammocks. Occasionally a ferret will chew on cloth, but this is usually baby behavior and most ferrets grow out of it. If your pet does chew on cloth, remove the item from the cage and use a small cardboard or wooden box with clean straw or hay for a sleeping area. After the ferret matures try the cloth sleeping materials again.
Litter Box: Ferrets can be litter box trained. Ferrets like to use the bathroom in corners or where there is a vertical surface. With this in mind, use a small cat litter box with low sides that can be placed in a corner of the cage or exercise area. Do not use clay or clumping kitty litter in the box because ferrets like to burrow and play in the clean litter and the dust from the clay is damaging to the fur. A pelleted or shredded bedding is preferable. There are a wide variety of suitable pelleted or shredded bedding materials on the market sold either for cats of for small mammals. Some examples of materials used for pelleted or shredded beddings include: recycled paper; cellulose; and various woods such as cedar, aspen or pine. As mentioned, ferrets back up to a vertical surface to defecate and urinate, so only a thin layer of litter is needed or all the waste material will go over the side of the box! Ferrets do not cover up their waste so it will be necessary to change the litter material several times a week to minimize stool odor. If the ferret is allowed to exercise over a large area of the house it will be necessary to place litter boxes in several locations. When ferrets need to go, they will not travel far to take care of the situation!
Toys: Never give your pet ferret any latex or foam rubber toys!!! Ferrets like to chew on and then swallow these products and the result can be a intestinal obstruction requiring surgery to remove the object. More appropriate toys are those that simulate the ferrets need for burrows or their attraction to hunting. Appropriate tunnel-type toys would include large cardboard mailing tubes, dryer hose, paper bags and PVC pipe. Toys that simulate moving prey include ping pong balls, small metal cans, golf balls, and small cloth baby toys or feather cat toys on springs that hang. Do not use any cloth toys if your ferret shows an interest in chewing them, but this is usually baby behavior and cloth is not a problem for adults. Remove buttons and eyes from any cloth baby toys.
Grooming
In general, ferrets need very little grooming. Ferrets do not need to be bathed and excessive bathing can actually cause dryness of the hair coat and skin. Ferrets have a natural musky odor to the skin that is part of who they are and it will never be completely eliminated by bathing. Unneutered ferrets do have an especially strong odor involving the skin and hair coat and the urine, particularly when they are reproductively active. Scent is huge part of how ferrets communicate with each other. We can tone down this strong ‘perfume’ by neutering the pet which will reduce the odor to a light musky smell. Most ferrets sold in the U.S. have already been neutered at the time of weaning.
Ferrets normally tend to have a fair amount of reddish brown wax in their ears. Avoid the urge to continuously remove this wax as it has a protective function. Once you have had your ferret checked by a veterinarian to ensure it is free of disease, let the ferret clean his or her own ears by shaking its head and scratching from time to time. Ferret nails are sharp and may become entangled in carpeting or cloth. It will be necessary to trim your pet's nails every 6 to 8 weeks to keep them in shape.cat nail trimmers are best to use on ferrets. Have an experienced person show you how to trim the nail the first time.
Handling
Domestic ferrets are generally easy to handle and are not aggressive little creatures. However, like all pets, they can become frightened and their first response may be to strike out and protect themselves with their teeth. We do not recommend keeping ferrets in households with children under 6 years of age because of the possibility that the child may inadvertently harm the ferret and an unfortunate accident may result. Ferrets have poor eyesight and should never be placed in a situation where they might fall over the edge of a high surface. In addition, do not hold ferrets near your face, especially if you are not familiar with his or her behavior yet because a nose can look like a really neat toy to bite if it comes towards the ferret suddenly. Most of the time you need only pick up your ferret and hold him/her in your arms to move him/her from place to place.
Vaccinations
Canine distemper: Canine distemper virus (CDV) is a contagious disease, CDV can be transmitted to ferrets directly from infected animals including dogs, foxes, raccoons and other ferrets, through contact with infected material such as shoes or clothing. You can bring CDV home if you are in contact with infected material in places such as the woods, a pet store or a breeding facility. We currently use a CDV vaccine designed for ferrets. The vaccine should be given once a year.
Rabies: Rabies is caused by a virus that can affect many species of animals, including man. The virus is shed in the saliva and transmission is usually through a bite wound. It can also be spread through contact of infected saliva with a mucous membrane or any open wound. Since rabies is a human health issue, there are strict local and state regulations that govern the vaccination of most domestic pets for rabies. In some areas of the country, if a ferret bites a human and it was not vaccinated for rabies, the ferret will be confiscated and destroyed so the brain can be examined for the rabies virus. We recommend an annual rabies vaccine for your ferret because of the above regulations. The rabies vaccine we carry is a ‘killed’ form of the virus.
Veterinary Care
Ferrets up to 2 years of age – Ferrets up to 2 years of age need annual physical examinations and annual vaccinations for canine distemper and rabies as described above. Ferrets are susceptible to developing heartworm disease.
Ferrets over 2 years of age – Unfortunately there are a number of diseases that can plague the ferret after 2 years of age including adrenal disease, insulinoma, skin and other cancers and heart disease. In order to manage these problems effectively it is essential to strive for early detection. We recommend ferrets over 2 years of age have a physical examination performed once a year.
Fleas: Ferrets are susceptible to fleas, particularly if they are kept outdoors, but can also be infested if other pets in the house bring fleas inside. It is best to avoid the use of insecticides on your pet and there are safer alternatives that can be used once a month on the coat during the flea season. It is also vital to clean up the environment to completely eliminate the flea problem.
Heartworm Disease: Ferrets, like dogs and cats, are susceptible to infestation by the heartworm. Mosquitoes transmit the larvae of this parasite when they feed on a host. The adult worms live in the heart of the pet and in a ferret, the heart is so small that the presence of even one or two worms could be fatal. Although heartworm disease is not prevalent in Idaho, it is present and the possibility of exposure does exist. We recommend that all ferrets which are exposed to the outdoors in playpens, living areas or taken outside on a regular basis, may want to consider heartworm prevention. Ferrets that are strictly indoors with little or no exposure to the outside will have a lowered chance of contracting heartworm disease.
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RABBITS 
Rabbits are perhaps the most commonly kept small mammal (other than cats) in the United States. They are not rodents, but are included in a family called Lagomorphs. Our pet rabbits are direct descendants of the wild European rabbits which originally inhabited the area around Spain and Portugal. The scientific name Oryctolagus cuniculus means "hare-like digger" (an appropriate name if you ever had a rabbit take a liking to your carpet!) They were originally bred in captivity at least 3000 years ago as a source of food and fur. Not until the 19th century did "fancy" rabbit breeding become fashionable and thus the proliferation of the many shapes and sizes of rabbits we have today. Rabbits were never bred primarily for behavioral characteristics (as dogs are) but rather for size and color. Therefore the behaviors we see in the domestic rabbit today vary little from their wild ancestors.
Rabbits are herbivorous prey animals, meaning they are lower on the food chain and must be on the constant lookout for predators. Even though we don't like to think about it, in nature they provide food for a whole host of other animals and thus have a prolific rate of reproduction. Thus the three main purposes of the prey animal are stay alive, reproduce and eat enough food to accomplish the first two.
They are strict herbivores and have continually growing incisors and molars that are designed to tear and macerate very tough leafy foods. The teeth rub against each other and are worn down by the action of eating. Rabbits require a large percentage of fiber in their diet to maintain normal gastrointestinal motility.
Normal Rabbit Weight
Unfortunately, what we thought was a normal rabbit weight in the past has often been an overweight rabbit. Obesity is a problem with rabbits that eat a diet too high in calories and that don't get enough exercise. A healthy rabbit should be slim and sleek. You should be able to feel the ribs just under the skin without a thick layer of fat. The hindquarters should not have any folds of skin covering or interfering with the digestive tract or urinary openings. The dewlaps in females should not be so large as to interfere with grooming or eating. If you are in doubt about your rabbit's proper weight, please consult your veterinarian.
Feeding
The most important part of the house rabbit diet is an unlimited supply of grass hay which provides essential fiber as well as proteins, vitamins, minerals and carbohydrates. In addition, because of the high fiber content of the hay, it is the best preventative for stomach and intestinal problems such as 'hairballs' and chronic soft stools making it unnecessary to routinely use hairball laxatives or anti-diarrheal products. Hay should be provided for your pet in a box or hay rack and should always be available. Grass hay is preferred over alfalfa hay. There are several types of grass hays available such as mixed grass, timothy or oat. Hays vary depending on the area of the country and the time of the year. Sources of hay include pet stores, feed stores and horse barns. If you have several rabbits, it may be beneficial to buy an entire bale of hay as it will be gobbled up quickly! Hay should be stored in a cool, dry area in an open bag to allow for good air circulation. Hay should have a fresh smell. Damp hay can become moldy and should be discarded. Rabbits of any age can be introduced to hay without any special preparation.
Another important part of the house rabbit diet is fresh, leafy greens. These foods provide not only fiber, but a variety of vitamins, such as A and C, minerals, proteins, and carbohydrates. Most rabbits really enjoy their greens. For recently weaned rabbits or rabbits that have never been exposed to hay or greens before, first introduce hay to the diet for two weeks and then introduce greens gradually and the transition should go smoothly. Feed at least three different types of greens daily so that you provide a variety of nutrients. Greens should be washed thoroughly, to remove dangerous pesticides. Uneaten fresh foods should be removed from the cage after 3 to 4 hours to prevent spoilage. The amount to feed is a minimum of 1 heaping cup of greens per day per 4 lbs of body weight. You can double or triple this amount as your pet becomes used to these great foods. Some examples of nutritious greens are: dandelion greens (and flowers), raspberry leaves, kale, mustard greens, escarole, endive, raddichio, collard greens, beet greens, carrot tops, parsley, turnip tops, romaine, Swiss chard, bok choy, mint leaves, cabbage (red and green), etc. Use dark, tough, leafy greens as opposed to light colored thin-leafed greens such as bibb lettuce and iceberg lettuce. Other vegetables and fruits that can be fed in the amount of 1 heaping Tablespoon per 4 lbs body weight daily (total volume of all these foods fed combined) are pea pods (not the peas), carrots, apples, pears, peaches, strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, squash, tomatoes, papayas and mangos. Stay away from starchy and high sugar content foods such as bananas, peas, corn, beans, grapes, white and sweet potatoes. Cereal grains and cereal products can cause digestive upsets due to their high starch content, are high in calories and in general should not be used for the house rabbit. These foods include: bread, cookies, crackers, rolled oats, breakfast cereals and other grain products. Although many people feed these treat foods because their rabbits love them (like candy!) if they are fed in too large an amount, they can create obesity and chronic soft stools. Don't introduce these 'candy' items to the diet and your pet will only know good nutrition and never know about the 'junk food' he or she is missing!
Commercial rabbit pellets were originally designed to promote rapid growth, weight gain, and ease of feeding for production rabbits (meat and fur) and laboratory rabbits. They are very efficient at what they are designed to do, but for the house rabbit that is to live out a full life, the unlimited feeding of a commercial pellet may be a problem. Once rabbits are full grown, they don't need to put on more weight. Feed your pet a commercial pellet that is designed for the maintenance of the adult rabbit, with a fiber content of 18% or higher, a protein content at around 13-14% and fat content at no more than 3%. Once a young bunny has reached its adult size (4-8 months depending on the breed) we recommend cutting back the pellets to 1/8-1/4 cup per 5 lbs body weight per day as a MAXIMUM. Remember, there is always hay available so your pet will never go hungry. Pellets should be bought in amounts that will be used within 3 months and kept in a closed container in a cool dry place to prevent spoilage. Do not use pellet mixes that contain grains and seeds along with the pellets. The addition of the grains and seeds only add to the calorie and fat content which can result in obesity, liver and intestinal disease. Some rabbits that are obese and have difficulty losing weight on pellets may have to have them removed from the diet altogether, but this should be done only under your veterinarian's supervision. Additional supplements are not needed for rabbits on a diet that is rich in hay, greens and limited pellets.
Fruits and Other Vegetables (Treat Foods)
Depending on the time of year, rabbits in the wild would have access to additional foods such as fruits, vegetables and flowers. Since these items do not make up the majority of the diet, we recommend feeding these special items in limited quantities. Another reason for limiting the amount is because some rabbits like these foods so well, that they will eat them to the exclusion of all others thereby creating a potential for health problems. Foods from this list can be fed daily and you may even wish to use them as part of a reward or training system. These treat foods are far healthier (and less expensive) that the commercial treat foods sold for rabbits. Commercial treat foods should be totally avoided because they are loaded with starch and fat and if fed in quantity can cause serious health problems. Stick to "natural" and healthy treats for your pet.
Follow the same guidelines as listed for selecting and using green foods with the exception of the amount. You can feed your pet a total of 1 heaping tablespoon per 2 pounds of body weight per day of any combination of the foods below:
Kiwi Fruit - Strawberries - Blueberries - Raspberries - Blackberries - Apple - Pear Peach - Papaya - Pineapple - Cactus fruit - Melons - Bean or alfalfa sprouts - Green or red bell peppers - Mango - Pea pods (flat, NOT peas) - Cherries - Cranberries - Edible flowers from the garden (organically grown and NOT from a florist) such as roses, - nasturtiums, - day lilies, - pansies and snap dragons - Carrots - Squash
Kiwi Fruit - Strawberries - Blueberries - Raspberries - Blackberries - Apple - Pear Peach - Papaya - Pineapple - Cactus fruit - Melons - Bean or alfalfa sprouts - Green or red bell peppers - Mango - Pea pods (flat, NOT peas) - Cherries - Cranberries - Edible flowers from the garden (organically grown and NOT from a florist) such as roses, - nasturtiums, - day lilies, - pansies and snap dragons - Carrots - Squash
Dried fruit can be used as well, but since it is so concentrated, use only half the amount as fresh. We do not recommend feeding bananas and grapes as rabbits sometimes become "addicted" to these foods. If you do chose to feed them, watch your pet carefully to ensure he/she is also eating sufficient quantities of green foods and hay.
Forbidden Foods
A diet of grass hay and green foods with small amounts of fruits and vegetables contains all the nutrition necessary for the pet rabbit. Unfortunately there are many commercial treat foods sold for rabbits that contain high levels of starch and fat. In addition, some people still feel that it is necessary to feed rabbits high starch foods. Although a pet rabbit can eat very small amounts of starchy or fatty foods, without ill effect, the problem is that people often feed excess amounts because the rabbits eat these foods so greedily. Our recommendation is to completely avoid high starch and/or fat foods for your pet. In this way you will avoid any potential problems these foods can cause including obesity and serious GI disease. It is always easier to prevent than to treat a disease.
Examples of high fat and/or starch foods to AVOID include:
Beans (of any kind) Peas Corn
Breads Cereals Nuts
Seeds Oats Wheat
Chocolate Refined sugar Any other grains
Water
Water should always be available, and changed daily. A dirty water container can be a breeding ground for bacteria. Use either a water bottle or a heavy bowl that is weighted or secured to the side of the cage so that it does not tip over. Do not use medications or vitamins in the water, because your pet may not drink the water if the taste or color is altered. Please remember if your pet is eating a large quantity of greens that the water consumption may be minimal.
Housing
House rabbits should never be kept completely confined to a cage. Exercise is vital for the health of the rabbit. All too often we hear well meaning, but poorly informed, people describe rabbits as easy to keep because "they can be caged and don't take up much space!" This idea has led to many rabbits being caged most of their lives with the distinct possibility of developing both physical and behavioral disorders. They are designed to run and jump and move about a large area.
To confine a rabbit to a cage exclusively can cause several problems including:
Obesity
Caused most often by a diet too high in calories coupled with a lack of exercise.
Pododermatitis
Inflammation of the feet caused by sitting in a damp or dirty environment.
Poor bone density
Rabbits that are continually confined to a small cage can exhibit marked thinning of the bones which may lead to more easily broken bones when handling.
Poor muscle tone
If the rabbit can't exercise, the muscles, including the heart, will be underdeveloped and weak.
Behavioral problems
Continually caged rabbits can exhibit a wide range of abnormal behaviors including lethargy, aggression, continual chewing of the cage bars, chewing fur (obsessive grooming), and destruction of the entire contents of the cage.
Gastrointestinal and urinary function
A rabbit that sits all day in the cage with little exercise can develop abnormal elimination habits.
A cage can be used as a home base for part of the day or it can be open all the time within an exercise area. The cage should allow the rabbit to stand up on its hind legs without hitting the top of the cage, provide a resting area and space for a litter box. It should be easy to clean and indestructible, therefore metal is probably the best choice. The floor can be solid or wire. Keep the cage in a well-ventilated, cool area. Basements are often too damp, which can promote respiratory disease. If you must house your pet in a basement, use a dehumidifier and a fan to improve the air quality. The optimum temperature range for a rabbit is 60F to 70F. When the temperature rises into the mid 70's, you may drooling, and a clear nasal discharge. If temperatures reach the upper 80's and beyond, especially if the humidity level is high, there exists a potential for a fatal heat stroke. On hot days, when air conditioning is not available, leave a plastic milk jug filled with frozen water in the cage, for use as a portable "air conditioner".
Rabbits can be caged outdoors if they are provided with a shelter to protect them from rain, heat and cold. In addition, make sure the cage is secure from predators such as dogs, coyotes and raccoons and is kept clean to keep from attracting parasitic insects. In the winter use straw bedding in the sheltered area for insulation and make sure that the water bowl is changed daily. Your pet can dehydrate rapidly if the water is frozen for more than a day.
Exercise Area
As mentioned, it is vital to the health of your pet to provide an exercise area where your pet can roam for a few hours every day. The easiest way to accomplish this is to use exercise fencing panels sold for dogs. These can be found at most pet stores. Buy fencing that is at least three feet high for small and medium rabbits and four feet high for giant breeds. These panels are easily put together with metal pins and can be configured to any size or shape needed. The pen keeps your bunny away from furniture, electrical cords and toxic materials. The pen can also be used outside as a moveable enclosure to allow your pet access to grassy areas. Never leave a rabbit outside in a pen unsupervised, because dogs, cats and raccoons may be able to knock down the fencing or climb over it and harm your pet. If you need to protect the floor under the pen you can use a sheet of no-wax flooring which is available at most hardware stores. It can be easily cleaned and rolled up when not in use.
If you are going to allow your pet free access to your house you need to bunny-proof it. Block all escape routes, cover or block access to electrical, phone and computer cords, cover furniture to protect it from the rabbit's teeth and claws and remove access to toxic plants, rodenticides, insecticides and other toxic materials.
Litter Box
Rabbits can be litter box trained relatively easily. When beginning training, confine your pet in a small area, either in a cage or a blocked off section of the room and place a litter box in the corner (try to pick the corner your pet has already used for its toilet). Make sure the sides of the box are low enough so your pet can get in and out easily. It is helpful to put some of the droppings in the box. Some people have also found it helpful to put some hay in the box to encourage defecation in the box (they usually pass stool while they are eating). In exercise areas, provide one more litter box then the number of rabbits you have and put newspaper or plastic under the litter box to protect your floors from accidents. Never punish your pet while in the litter box.
Bedding
Pelleted litter makes the best bedding and is preferred over wood shavings, corncob and kitty litter. Pelleted litters are non-toxic and digestible if eaten, draw moisture away from the surface keeping it drier, control odor well and are can be composted. Do not use clay or clumping kitty litter. We have had cases where rabbit ate these products and died from an intestinal impaction. There are a wide variety of pelleted beddings available through pet stores, veterinarians and rabbit clubs.
Rest/Hide Area
The ancestors of our pet rabbits would have spent a good portion of their day in protected burrows underground. Our pet rabbits retain the same need to have a protected area in which they feel safe and secure. Some rabbits are content to sit in a box full of hay, others like a completely enclosed box in which to hide. Try providing untreated wicker or straw baskets, litter pans or other shallow boxes filled with hay, cardboard boxes with an entrance hole and the bottom removed or large cardboard tubes as places to hide. Use your imagination! If the cage has a wire floor, provide a solid area on which the pet can rest. Use material that is washable or disposable and absorbent. Some examples might be fake fleece (not long fur) found in sewing stores or absorbent baby blankets (not terry cloth towels). Do not use carpet squares because they are not absorbent, they are abrasive to the feet and they can not be thoroughly cleaned.
Toys
Rabbits get a fair amount of mental exercise from their diet of grass hay and green foods, but additional toys are appreciated. Rabbits like to chew, so give them branches from untreated trees (please dry the wood for at least a month to prevent any adverse reactions to the sap), wooden chew toys designed for birds, or unfinished, unpainted wicker or straw baskets. They like things that make noise such as keys on an unbreakable key holder, empty plastic or metal cans, hard plastic baby toys and jar lids. They like things that both move and can be chewed such as toilet paper or paper towel rolls, empty small cardboard cartons and small piles of shredded paper.
Handling
There are a number of ways to pick up your pet depending on how calm he/she is and his/her size. The main thing to remember is to always support the hindquarters to prevent serious spinal injuries. Rabbit backbones are fragile and can fracture if the hind legs are allowed to dangle and the animal then gives one strong kick. Unfortunately these injuries are usually permanent and frequently result in the euthanasia of the pet, so the best policy is prevention. Never pick up a bunny by his/her sensitive ears because it's very painful and totally unnecessary! It is better to grasp the loose skin over the shoulders or scoop up under the chest and then place your other hand under the back legs to lift your bunny from the floor. Work near the floor when first learning to handle your pet so that if he/she jumps out of your arms there isn't a chance for a fall.
Ask your veterinarian or an experienced rabbit handler about other methods used to handle rabbits. Some restraint methods are particularly useful when your rabbit needs to be medicated. Wrapping your pet securely in a towel is one easy method and your veterinarian can instruct you on the proper procedure.
Medical Problems
Cecotropes Rabbits are herbivores with a marvelous gastrointestinal (GI) tract that allows them to extract nutrients from a variety of sources. Rabbits were designed to live on a diet composed of large quantities of grasses and leaves. They might also browse on flowers and fruits as they could find them at different times of the year. Rabbits are very successful at making the most out of the food they eat, food that many other animals could not even digest. One of the keys to their success is the production of cecotropes, which are a special type of dropping that is eaten by the rabbit directly from the anus and then digested. These droppings are not made up of waste materials but rather are rich in organisms that have come from the area of the intestinal tract called the cecum. These organisms are packed with nutrients such as amino acids (the "building blocks" of proteins), fatty acids and a variety of vitamins. In order for the rabbit to get these nutrients, the cecotropes and thus the organisms must be eaten and digested thereby extracting the nutrients. In this way, rabbits can extract the maximum nutrients from low energy food materials. They literally produce some of their own food! Rabbits will eat their cecotropes directly from the anus and you will see not these special droppings in the cage. If a rabbit has a medical problem that prevents him/her from reaching the anus, then you may see cecotropes on the cage floor. Cecotropes are elongated, greenish in color, coated in mucous and have a strong odor. Please consult your veterinarian if you see a large number of cecotropes in the cage because your rabbit may be missing vital nutrition. If a rabbit is eating a diet that is too rich in nutrients, such as one that contains mostly commercial pellets, there may normally be a few cecotropes dropped in the cage. As mentioned before, the number one group of diseases that is seen in rabbits is caused by an inappropriate diet and most are completely preventable. The following is a brief discussion of a few of the medical conditions that you should be aware of.
Neutering/Spaying: Uterine adenocarcinoma is a malignant cancer that can affect female rabbits over two years of age. The best prevention for this disease is to remove the reproductive organs (ovaries and uterus) in a surgical procedure commonly called a spay. The procedure can be performed in females over four months of age. Spaying a rabbit also prevents pregnancy and can help control some aggressive behavior. Male rabbits can also develop disease of the reproductive organs (the testicles) but with much less frequency than females. However, some male rabbits have a tendency to become aggressive in their adolescent years (8-18 months of age) and can also start spraying urine outside the toilet area to mark their territory. Surgical removal of the testicles, called castration, can control these behaviors if it is done before the behavior occurs or shortly thereafter. Male rabbits can be neutered anytime after four months of age.
Dental Disease: Dental disease can be the result of a variety of factors including trauma to the face, genetics (jaw is too short or malformed such as seen in the lop-eared breeds of rabbits), nutritional disease, infectious disease and diet. Rabbit ancestors ate a diet that was tough and abrasive therefore they developed teeth that grew throughout their lives. Without this constant replenishment the teeth would wear down quickly and the rabbit would be unable to eat and eventually die. Any condition that causes a rabbit's teeth to be worn down improperly or causes malalignment or the death can result in serious dental disease. The best prevention for dental disease is a healthy diet of grass hay and green foods. But even with this good diet, there are still rabbits that develop disease due to other factors, particularly genetics. The treatment of dental disease is based on the cause and severity of illness. Your rabbit should have a dental examination performed by a veterinarian at least once a year. You should never attempt to trim a rabbit's overgrown teeth without consulting your veterinarian. An improperly performed tooth trim can lead to serious dental disease.
Loss of Appetite: Rabbits are little eating machines and if you note that your pet has changed his/her eating habits, there is cause for concern. The most common reason a rabbit stops eating is in response to pain somewhere in the body. The rule of thumb regarding the seriousness of the loss of appetite is as follows: Loss of appetite but otherwise acting normal should be investigated within 48 hours. Some rabbits may go through a slow down and then pick up again in a day. The key here is that the rabbit is still active and alert is still be producing stools. Loss of appetite accompanied by obvious lethargy or depression should be considered an emergency and should be investigated immediately. This can be a sign of an intestinal obstruction or toxin ingestion. Another important sign is that no stools are being produced.
Respiratory Signs: Rabbits can exhibit sneezing, coughing and excess tearing. Not all these signs are related to respiratory disease. More common causes include environmental irritants (perfumes, sprays, cooking fumes, ammonia fumes from accumulated urine in toilet area, fabric softener on bedding, dust), poor air circulation, damp environment, hot environment and dental disease. Please consult your veterinarian if your pet is showing the signs listed above.
Hairballs: Hairballs are often cited as a reason for rabbits to stop eating. The problem is not hair (which is always present in a normal rabbit's stomach due to grooming) but abnormalities in GI tract motility. A rabbit on a healthy diet of grass hay and green foods will not have a problem with this "disease". The only exception is that, rarely, longhaired breeds of rabbits such as Angoras and Jersey Woolys, can accumulate an abnormal amount of hair in their stomachs even if they are on a good diet. Brush these breeds regularly to prevent the ingestion of large amounts of long hair.
Diarrhea: True diarrhea, where all the stool being passed is purely liquid, is very rare in the rabbit. More commonly we see a situation where the rabbit has both normal and soft pudding-like stools in the toilet area. This is not diarrhea, but a problem with GI motility usually caused by an inappropriate diet. If you should notice true diarrhea in your pet, you should consider it an emergency situation and consult your veterinarian immediately.
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GUINEA PIGS 
The guinea pig or cavy is a docile rodent native to the Andes Mountains of South America. They were first domesticated by the Andean Indians of Peru who used them as a food source and as a sacrificial offering to Incan gods. During the 16th century, Dutch explorers introduced guinea pigs to Europe where they were selectively bred by fanciers. The guinea pig entered the research laboratory in the 18th century and have since made significant contributions to the scientific community. To this day, the guinea pig remains a favorite pet among children due to their docile behavior, ease of handling, and clean, quiet nature.
Through selective breeding efforts, guinea pigs are found in an array of colors and coat types from which to choose. Four primary varieties are commonly encountered in the pet industry. The Shorthair or English is characterized by having a uniformly short hair coat. The Abyssinian has whorls or rosettes in their short, rough, wiry coat. The Silky is a large variety distinguished by its medium length silky hair. The Peruvian is recognized by its very long silky hair. All types are commonly kept as pets.
Diet
Good quality food and fresh, clean water must be readily available at all times. Commercially available pelleted chows provide all the essential nutrients required by guinea pigs as long as the pellets are fresh and wholesome when offered. These pellets contain 18-20% protein, 16% fiber, and approximately 1 gram of vitamin C per kilogram of ration. Do not feed rabbit pellets as a substitute for guinea pig pellets. They are not equivalent in nutritive value. Unlike rabbits and most other mammals, guinea pigs require a high level of folic acid and vitamin C. Guinea pig diets are uniquely formulated with these requirements in mind, whereas rabbit pellets are not.
Unlike most mammals, guinea pigs cannot manufacture their own vitamin C, therefore they must receive it from an outside source. Pelleted guinea pig diets are supplemented with this essential vitamin. However, even when properly stored in a cool, dry place, fresh pellets lose about one-half of the vitamin C content due to degradation within six weeks of manufacture. For this reason, we also recommend further vitamin C supplementation in the water as follows: 100 milligrams ascorbic acid (human vitamin C syrup or soluble tablet/capsule) added to 1 cup of drinking water, made up fresh every 12 hours. Alternatively, a guinea pig can be offered one handful of fresh kale, cabbage or other dark leafy green high in ascorbic acid.
Additions to the guinea pig's diet should be made carefully. The majority of the diet, at least 80-90%, must be the balanced ration (guinea pig pellets). As mentioned above, a small amount of kale, cabbage, or orange can be fed as a vitamin C supplement. In addition, fresh greens, timothy / grass hay, and small amounts of fruit may be offered daily with some precautions. These foods should not make up more than 10-15% of the daily consumption. Furthermore, the fresh items must be thoroughly washed to avoid exposing your pet to pesticide residues or bacterial contamination. Any change in the guinea pig's diet should be made gradually due to their sensitive digestive systems.
Guinea pigs tend to be creatures of habit, and therefore, do not tolerate changes in the presentation of their food or water nor changes in the taste, odor, texture, or form of the food itself. Pet owners should avoid making radical changes in the food or water containers as well. Any sudden change in routine can result in the pet refusing its food and water which can be disconcerting and ultimately dangerous.
All foods should be provided in heavy ceramic crocks that resist both tipping and chewing. The crocks should be high enough to keep bedding and fecal pellets out of the food but low enough for easy access by the animal.
Water is most easily made available by the use of a water bottle equipped with a 'sipper' tube. Guinea pigs tend to contaminate and clog their water bottles by chewing on the end of the sipper tube and 'backwashing' food particles into it. For this reason, it is imperative that all food and water containers be cleaned and disinfected daily.
Diseases
Bacterial Enteritis: A number of bacteria are capable of causing infections of the gastrointestinal tract in guinea pigs. Some of these bacteria are introduced through contaminated greens or vegetables or in contaminated water. One of the most common bacteria that causes intestinal disease in guinea pigs is Salmonella spp. Other bacterial species that may cause diarrhea and enteritis are Yersinia pseudotuberculosis, E. coli, Arizona spp., and Clostridium spp. In addition to diarrhea, other common symptoms associated with intestinal disease are lethargy and weight loss. In other case, sudden death may occur before expression of these signs.
A veterinarian may elect to use aggressive antibiotic therapy and supportive care to treat this condition. A bacterial culture of the patient's stool with antibiotic sensitivity will greatly assist the veterinarian in choosing an appropriate antibiotic to use.
Bacterial Pododermatitis (Footpad Infection): Severe infections of the footpads are very common among guinea pigs housed in cages with wire flooring. Fecal soiling of the wire potentiates the problem. The guinea pig's front feet are most vulnerable to this condition.
Symptoms of this condition include swelling of the affected feet, lameness, and reluctancy to move. Improved sanitation and cage floor alterations are the initial steps in correcting the problem. In addition, the feet themselves should be treated by a veterinarian. Topical dressing with an antibiotic and periodic bandaging is often required. Depending on the severity of the damage, injectable antibiotics may also be necessary . Therapy may have to be carried out for a lengthy period of time to get full recovery. Unfortunately, a consequence of this condition is arthritis.
Barbering (Hair Chewing): Hair loss is a common problem in guinea pigs. 'Barbering' is just one of the many causes of it. This vice (bad habit) occurs when guinea pigs chew on the hair coats of other guinea pigs that are lower than them in the social 'pecking order'. The dominant 'pig' and main culprit is identified by its normal, full hair coat while others have areas of alopecia (hair loss). There is no treatment for this condition except separating the guinea pigs if it becomes a serious problem. Hair loss or hair thinning can occur for a number of other reasons as well. It is a common phenomenon among sows who are repeatedly bred or weakened, newly weaned juvenile guinea pigs. Certain fungal diseases and external parasite infestations also present with hair loss problems. These specific problems will be addressed in later sections.
External Parasites (Lice and Mites): Lice and mites are the most common external parasites of guinea pigs. Lice are tiny, wingless, flattened insects that live within the hair coats of infested animals. Both adults and eggs are found attached to hair shafts of affected pets. Mites are microscopic, spider-like organisms that infest the top layers of the skin in affected animals. Guinea pig lice and mites are not known to parasitize man.
Mite infestations are usually more severe than lice. A specific mite, Trixacarus cavie, causes serious infestations in pet guinea pigs. This sarcoptic mite lives in the outer layers of skin causing an intense itching and scratching with considerable hair loss. In some cases, they present without itching and scratching but with only hair loss and crusting of the skin. In other cases, the infestation and irritation is so severe that the pet causes significant self-inflicted wounds and exhibits wild running and circling behavior.
A veterinarian can diagnose mite infestation by performing skin scrapings of affected areas and viewing them under the microscope. Successful treatment consists of one to four injections of a specific antiparasitic drug at approximately two week intervals. In the meantime, if wood shavings are used as bedding or litter, it should be replaced with paper toweling to make your pet more comfortable.
Transmission of Trixacarus cavie mites can occur only through direct contact between infested and noninfested guinea pigs. Therefore, pet guinea pigs are not likely to harbor this parasite unless they are recent additions or had previous exposure to mite-infested guinea pigs. For your pet's sake, be sure that any guinea pig (s)he comes in contact with is healthy and free of this and other parasites.
Lice infestations often go unnoticed. However, heavy infestations are usually accompanied with excessive itching, scratching, and some hair loss. Scabbing on or around the ears may also be evident. Guinea pigs have two types of biting lice that may parasitize them. Both irritate and abrade the skin's surface and feed off the bodily fluids that exude through the superficial wounds they create.
Heat Stress (Stroke): Guinea pigs are very susceptible to heat stroke, particularly those that are overweight and/or heavily furred. Environmental temperatures above 85 degrees, high humidity (above 70%), inadequate shade and ventilation, overcrowding, and other stresses are additional predisposing problems. Signs of heat stroke include panting, slobbering, weakness, reluctancy to move, convulsions, and ultimately, death. This is a treatable condition if recognized early. Heat stressed guinea pigs should be misted with cool water, bathed in cool water, or have rubbing alcohol applied to its footpads. Once this first aid measure is accomplished, veterinary assistance should be sought. Prevention of heat stroke involves providing adequate shade and proper ventilation. In addition, a cool misting of water and/or a fan operating over a container of ice can be directed toward the pet's cage. If indoors, air conditioning during the heat of the summer provides the best relief.
Pneumonia: Pneumonia is one of the most common bacterial diseases of the pet guinea pig. Respiratory infections are caused by a number of viral and bacterial agents including Streptococcal pneumoniae, Bordetella bronchiseptica, and a gram-positive diplococcus . Many of the disease causing organisms inhabit the respiratory tracts of clinically normal guinea pigs. Conditions of stress, inadequate diet, and improper husbandry will often predispose a pet to an opportunistic infection with one or more of these agents. Symptoms of pneumonia may include dyspnea (difficulty breathing), discharge from the nose and eyes, lethargy, and inappetance. In some cases, sudden death will occur without any of these signs.
Occasionally, middle or inner ear infections accompany respiratory disease in guinea pigs. Additional symptoms in these cases include incoordination, torticollis (twisting of the neck), circling to one side, and rolling.
Veterinary consultation should be sought when a guinea pig exhibits any of the above symptoms. A bacterial culture with antibiotic sensitivity of the throat or nasal discharge will assist in the selection of an appropriate antibiotic. Aggressive antibiotic therapy in addition to supportive care of the patient may be necessary to get the condition under control. Unfortunately, even though elimination of the symptoms may be possible with appropriate therapy, erratication of the causative bacteria is not.
Scurvy (Vitamin C Deficiency): Guinea pigs cannot manufacture Vitamin C and must receive an adequate supply from outside food sources. Lack of sufficient Vitamin C in the diet results in scurvy. The symptoms of scurvy include poor appetite, swollen, painful joints and ribs, reluctance to move, poor bone and teeth development, and spontaneous bleeding especially from the gums, into joints, and in muscle. If left untreated, this disease can be fatal especially to rapidly growing young and pregnant females. In addition, subclinical deficiencies often predispose animals to other diseases.
The mandatory level of vitamin C is supplemented in commercial guinea pig pelleted rations. However, with improper storage and handling these pellets lose their potency rapidly. In fact, even when properly stored in a cool, dry environment, fresh pellets lose up to half of their potency in only six weeks or so due to degradation of the vitamin. For this reason, further supplementation is recommended.
These animals should be examined at the first sign of this condition for early diagnosis and treatment. Early supplementation of vitamin C (either in food, water, or by injection) is required to reverse the symptoms.
Slobbers / Dental Malocclusion: Slobbers is the condition where the fur under the jaw and down the neck remains wet from the constant drooling of saliva. The primary cause for this condition is overgrowth of the guinea pig's premolars and/or molars. Most often this occurs in older (2-3 years of age) guinea pigs and usually involves the premolars (the most forward positioned cheek teeth). The overgrowth is due to improper alignment of the teeth when chewing, and excess selenium in the diet has also been incriminated. The overgrown tooth causes injury to the guinea pig's tongue resulting in an inability to chew and swallow food, drooling down the chin and neck, and weight loss (often severe). There is no permanent solution or correction to this problem. Periodic trimming or filing of the teeth is usually necessary. Guinea pigs with this problem should not be bred since dental malocclusion is often hereditary.
Handling
The Guinea pig's natural curiosity and friendly disposition makes it fairly easy to handle. Most Guinea pigs will approach a hand introduced into their cage and can be easily scooped into the palm of the hand. Usually, cupping one hand under the rump while the other hand cradles.
The midsection is a good way to pick up guinea pigs safely. Two hands are recommended so that nothing is left dangling (they're larger than most of the other "pocket pets"), and because there is less risk of dropping them. Guinea pigs are quite nose-heavy, and will do a potentially injurious nosedive if dropped. Guinea pigs not accustomed to being handled may jump and run, but rarely turn aggressive. Once picked up, the Guinea pig can be restrained by one hand with the over-the-back grip. This is done by scruffing the loose skin over their neck between your thumb and index finger while the base of the tail is held between your fourth and fifth fingers. The Guinea pig may struggle when held on its back or manipulated, so be careful not to let it escape.
The midsection is a good way to pick up guinea pigs safely. Two hands are recommended so that nothing is left dangling (they're larger than most of the other "pocket pets"), and because there is less risk of dropping them. Guinea pigs are quite nose-heavy, and will do a potentially injurious nosedive if dropped. Guinea pigs not accustomed to being handled may jump and run, but rarely turn aggressive. Once picked up, the Guinea pig can be restrained by one hand with the over-the-back grip. This is done by scruffing the loose skin over their neck between your thumb and index finger while the base of the tail is held between your fourth and fifth fingers. The Guinea pig may struggle when held on its back or manipulated, so be careful not to let it escape.
Housing
Housing accommodations provided for pet guinea pigs are limited only by one's imagination, ingenuity, and budget. There is no single correct way to house your guinea pig as long as the well-being of your pet is considered. Adequate housing is a major factor in the maintenance of healthy pets.
Guinea pigs can be housed within enclosures made of wire, stainless steel, durable plastic, or glass. The latter three materials are preferred since they resist corrosion. Wood should not be used due to difficulty in cleaning and susceptibility to destructive gnawing. Many plastics are also easily destroyed by gnawing. Ideally, the enclosure should have one side open for adequate ventilation, so be careful when using aquariums. The design and construction of the enclosure must be escape-proof. In addition, the cage must be free of sharp edges and other potential hazards. The size of the enclosure should allow for normal guinea pig activity. Approximately 100 square inches of floor area per adult guinea pig is recommended. Breeding animals should be provided 180 square inches each. The enclosure can remain opened on the top if the sides are at least 10 inches high (as long as other family pets such as dogs or cats are not a threat).
Cage flooring can be either wire or solid. Wire mesh flooring provides a cleaner environment and easier maintenance but may result in injuries to the feet and hocks. Housing on wire over long periods of time often results in foot pad and hock infections from abrasive rubbing on fecal soiled wire. To reduce the incidence of these problems provide a solid platform as a resting place in one area of the cage. Broken legs are common in guinea pigs that fall through the wire mesh and panic to escape. Although solid flooring requires more effort to keep sanitary, it is safer for the guinea pig. Solid floored cages also tend to be more aesthetically pleasing when appropriate bedding is used.
Bedding materials must be clean, non toxic, absorbent, relatively dust-free, and easy to replace. Acceptable beddings are wood shavings, shredded paper, processed ground corn cob, and commercial pellets. Make sure the ground corn cob is properly processed and stored to reduce fungal spore problems. Cedar shavings have been associated with causing respiratory difficulty and liver disease in some guinea pigs and thus should not be used. Saw dust should also be avoided since it tends to accumulate within the external genitalia of male guinea pigs causing an impaction.
The environment in the vicinity of the pet's cage is another important consideration. Because of their sensitive nature, guinea pigs are more comfortable and relaxed when housed in a quiet spot away from noise, excitement, and other such stresses. Also be sure to select a location away from direct sunlight and avoid cold damp areas. Guinea pigs thrive in a dry, cool environment with adequate ventilation. Drastic environmental changes should be prevented (especially high temperatures and humidity). Since they are nocturnal (active at night), guinea pigs require quiet periods of light in order to rest.
Since guinea pigs are social creatures, more than one animal may be safely housed together. In addition, males and females can remain in the same enclosure indefinitely. However, new males may occasionally fight if in the presence of a female. Older, dominant animals may also chew on the ears or hair of subordinate cage mates.
Reproduction
The single most important consideration regarding guinea pig breeding is that the female guinea pig (sow) should be bred between four and seven months of age if she is to be bred at all. If the first breeding is delayed much beyond this time, serious and often fatal problems with delivery may result. The reason for this is that the pelvis of the guinea pig fuses at this early age which narrows the birth canal and prevent the babies from passing easily. Males (boars) should be at least four months of age before breeding.
The sow's estrus cycle ('heat') lasts 14 to 19 days. The actual period in which the sow is receptive to the boar for breeding is approximately eight to fifteen hours during this cycle. Sows often return to 'heat' within a few hours after giving birth. This time is known as 'postpartum estrous' which means that she can be nursing one litter while being pregnant with another.
Pregnancy lasts between 63 and 70 days. The gestation is shorter with larger litters and longer with small litters. This duration of pregnancy is relatively long when compared to other rodents.
Pregnancy lasts between 63 and 70 days. The gestation is shorter with larger litters and longer with small litters. This duration of pregnancy is relatively long when compared to other rodents.
Pregnant sows exhibit a grossly enlarged abdomen during the later stages of pregnancy. Her body weight may actually double during pregnancy. The time of delivery is difficult to assess in guinea pigs due to the relatively long gestation period and lack of nest building by the sow. Within one week prior to delivery, a slight widening of the pelvic area can be noted. If this separation of the pelvis does not occur, then it can cause the delivery problems mentioned previously. Therefore, sows bred past seven months of age require caesarean section for delivery of the young.
An uncomplicated delivery usually takes about one-half hour with an average of five minutes between babies. Litter sizes range between one and six with an average of three to four. First time litters are usually very small. Unfortunately, abortions and stillbirths are not uncommon with guinea pigs.
The young are very well developed at birth. They weigh between 50 and 100 grams and have a full hair coat. Babies are even born with teeth and open eyes. Mothers are not very maternal in the raising of the offspring in that she does not build a nest and even remains in a sitting position while nursing. The young can actually eat solid food and drink from a bowl shortly after birth, but it is recommended to allow them to nurse for three weeks before weaning.
An uncomplicated delivery usually takes about one-half hour with an average of five minutes between babies. Litter sizes range between one and six with an average of three to four. First time litters are usually very small. Unfortunately, abortions and stillbirths are not uncommon with guinea pigs.
The young are very well developed at birth. They weigh between 50 and 100 grams and have a full hair coat. Babies are even born with teeth and open eyes. Mothers are not very maternal in the raising of the offspring in that she does not build a nest and even remains in a sitting position while nursing. The young can actually eat solid food and drink from a bowl shortly after birth, but it is recommended to allow them to nurse for three weeks before weaning.
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CHINCHILLAS 
The chinchilla is a rodent which is closely related to the guinea pig and porcupine. The pet chinchilla's wild counterpart inhabits the Andes Mountain areas of Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina. In the wild state, they live at high altitudes in rocky, barren mountainous regions. They have been bred in captivity since 1923 primarily for their pelts. Some chinchillas who were fortunate enough to have substandard furs were sold as pets or research animals. Today chinchillas are raised for both purposes: pets and pelts. Chinchilla laniger is the main species bred today. They tend to be fairly clean, odorless, and friendly pets but usually are shy and easily frightened. They do not make very good pets for young children, since they tend to be high-strung and hyperactive. The fur is extremely soft and beautiful bluish grey in color thus leading to their popularity in the pelt industry. Current color mutations include white, silver, beige, and black. Average Life Span: 8 - 10 years up to 18 yrs.
Diet
Commercial chinchilla pellets are available, but they are not available through all pet shops and feed stores. When the chinchilla variety is not in stock, a standard rabbit or guinea pig pellet can be fed in its place. Chinchillas tend to eat with their hands and often throw out a lot of pellets thus causing wastage. A pelleted formulation should constitute the majority of the animal's diet. Timothy, or other grass hay, can be fed to chinchillas in addition to their pellets. Alfalfa hay is not recommended due to its high calcium content relative to phosphorus. Hay is a beneficial supplement to the diet for nutritional and psychological reasons. Grass hay adds additional fiber to the diet while serving as an item for the pet to chew on other than its fur. Any hay fed should be free from mold and vermin contamination. Dried fruit and nuts are excellent treats for the pet chinchilla. Raisins tend to be a favorite treat among these animals. Fresh carrots and green vegetables can also be provided but in moderation. Remember, these supplements to the diet should constitute less than 10% of the food intake. Chinchillas can drink water from valve waterers or sipper-type bottles. Very careful sanitation of the water supply is necessary, since contaminated water may be a contributing factor in disease outbreaks.
Infectious Diseases
Enteritis (Intestinal Infection): One of the most common disease conditions of chinchillas is enteritis, which is an infection of the digestive tract. In many cases, the exact cause may not be determined. Bacterial, viral and protozoal agents have all been associated with the syndrome. A few specific agents include Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Salmonella typhimurium, E. coli and Giardia. Poor husbandry and management is often associated with an outbreak. Clinical signs are variable, ranging from depression to death. The chinchilla often exhibits diarrhea, but not consistently. Other signs of illness include loss of appetite, partial paralysis, and a painful abdomen. Examination of the feces through fecal flotations, direct smears, and cultures may reveal the causative agent. Veterinary care and treatment must be sought at the first sign of illness. Treatment of enteritis involves appropriate antibiotic therapy and supportive care. This disease is often fatal despite aggressive therapy due to the severity of the illness.
Pneumonia (Respiratory Infection): Pneumonia is another common condition observed in chinchillas which is caused by a number of disease agents. Damp, drafty housing often predisposes the pet to this condition. Clinical signs include discharge from the eyes and nose, loss of appetite, and rough hair coat. Death may result from this respiratory disease. Treatment involves supportive care and antibiotics.
Ringworm (Trichophyton mentagrophytes): is the typical agent in chinchillas with ringworm. It causes hair loss and scabby red lesions on the nose, feet, and around the eyes. Treatment involves the use of griseofulvin as prescribed by your veterinarian.
Pneumonia (Respiratory Infection): Pneumonia is another common condition observed in chinchillas which is caused by a number of disease agents. Damp, drafty housing often predisposes the pet to this condition. Clinical signs include discharge from the eyes and nose, loss of appetite, and rough hair coat. Death may result from this respiratory disease. Treatment involves supportive care and antibiotics.
Ringworm (Trichophyton mentagrophytes): is the typical agent in chinchillas with ringworm. It causes hair loss and scabby red lesions on the nose, feet, and around the eyes. Treatment involves the use of griseofulvin as prescribed by your veterinarian.
Non-Infectious Diseases
Malocclusion / Slobbers This condition is characterized by drooling of saliva onto the fur under the chin. Other signs include inappetence, sores in the mouth, and loss of fur under the chin The underlying cause is overgrowth of the molars (cheek teeth). Mineral imbalances as well as poor dental alignment lead to overgrown and maloccluded teeth. Temporary treatment involves clipping of the affected teeth and proper mineral supplementation. Providing wood or mineral blocks for the chinchilla to chew may aid in prevention, but many cases have a genetic basis.
Fur Slip Chinchillas often lose patches of fur when roughly handled. Another common cause is fighting among the chinchillas.
Barbering / Fur Chewing Barbering is the condition where a chinchilla chews on its own or another's fur resulting in a rough, moth-eaten appearing coat. Some of the underlying causes of this behavior include boredom, dirty fur, dietary imbalances and hereditary factors. Providing the animals with chew toys as well as selective breeding often aid in decreasing the incidence within a colony.
Heat Stroke High temperatures and high humidity are not tolerated well by chinchillas. Most problems occur in situations where the cage is placed in direct sunlight and poorly ventilated. Affected animals will be lying on their sides and panting. They also feel hot to the touch because of elevated body temperature. Animals in high humidity will also exhibit unkept, damp fur. Treatment involves misting or bathing them in cold water or applying rubbing alcohol to their foot pads. Veterinary assistance should be sought for further recommendations and treatment.
Fur Slip Chinchillas often lose patches of fur when roughly handled. Another common cause is fighting among the chinchillas.
Barbering / Fur Chewing Barbering is the condition where a chinchilla chews on its own or another's fur resulting in a rough, moth-eaten appearing coat. Some of the underlying causes of this behavior include boredom, dirty fur, dietary imbalances and hereditary factors. Providing the animals with chew toys as well as selective breeding often aid in decreasing the incidence within a colony.
Heat Stroke High temperatures and high humidity are not tolerated well by chinchillas. Most problems occur in situations where the cage is placed in direct sunlight and poorly ventilated. Affected animals will be lying on their sides and panting. They also feel hot to the touch because of elevated body temperature. Animals in high humidity will also exhibit unkept, damp fur. Treatment involves misting or bathing them in cold water or applying rubbing alcohol to their foot pads. Veterinary assistance should be sought for further recommendations and treatment.
Handling
Chinchillas are not very difficult to handle and rarely bite. Be careful when handling them, however, due to the risk of 'fur slip'. 'Fur slip' is the patchy shedding of hair that occurs when the fur is grasped or roughly handled. To avoid this condition, always grasp the base of the tail (close to the body) with one hand, while supporting the body on your opposite forearm and against your body. Chinchillas can also be held around the thorax as done with other rodents. Although they rarely bite, they still are capable, if agitated enough. In addition, and more likely, they may urinate when annoyed. As with any animal, always be in control when holding or restraining your pet to avoid injuries to either of you.
Housing
Chinchillas must be kept in an area that is well lit, adequately ventilated, and cool & dry. They do not tolerate heat or humidity, and they thrive at lower temperatures. The optimal temperature is 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Wire mesh cages are typically used for chinchillas, with or without a solid floor. Glass aquariums or plastic containers can be used, but with caution due to their poor ventilation. If these containers are used, watch for the development of scruffy fur as an indication of impending problems. Wooden cages should not be used since chinchillas are noted gnawers. These animals tend to be very active and acrobatic, thus requiring a lot of space. An ideal enclosure would measure at least 6ft X 6ft X 3ft with a one foot square nest box. Chinchillas tend not to get along well when housed together, with the female being the more aggressive gender.
Dust baths should be provided at least once or twice weekly. These must be large and deep enough to allow the chinchilla to roll over in it. Finely powdered volcanic ash is used to keep the fur clean and well groomed. Several brands of 'chinchilla dust' are marketed. A home-made alternative consists of 9 parts of silver sand to 1 part of Fuller's earth. This bath should only be provided for a short time during the day, otherwise there would be a perpetual dust cloud in the cage.
Dust baths should be provided at least once or twice weekly. These must be large and deep enough to allow the chinchilla to roll over in it. Finely powdered volcanic ash is used to keep the fur clean and well groomed. Several brands of 'chinchilla dust' are marketed. A home-made alternative consists of 9 parts of silver sand to 1 part of Fuller's earth. This bath should only be provided for a short time during the day, otherwise there would be a perpetual dust cloud in the cage.